Cristóbal Balenciaga, one of the most distinguished couturiers, was born in Getaria, and so was Juan Sebastián Elkano, the sailor who completed the first circumnavigation of the globe. In this small coastal town, now surrounded by extensive vineyards, part of the history that we know today was forged. So there must be some reason why Getaria is so special.
At the high part of the village, a building with an impressive façade of black aluminum and glass gives way to the museum that tells of the life of Balenciaga. The son of a fisherman and a dressmaker, he developed his talent over the decades by designing haute couture garments with great flair for the most distinguished characters of the time. Style captivates the visitors of the museum, which just turned 10 years old, thanks to the immersive atmosphere of the hall and the different rooms that display clothing, accessories, and documentation about the designer; a real treasure both for those who are followers of the creator and for anyone interested in design, culture, and fashion. In 2022, it will be 50 years since Balenciaga’s death and the institution will honor the occasion with a number of noteworthy temporary exhibitions. The first exhibition of the year, which is open to the public until the end of May, is entitled “The Elegance of the Hat” and was put together by Silvia Ventosa, the curator of fabrics and clothing for the Museu del Disseny of Barcelona, and Igor Uria, the director of collections at the Balenciaga Museum.
The year 2022 also marks the 500th anniversary of the first circumnavigation of the Earth, a feat captained by Juan Sebastián Elkano. Primus circumdedisti me (You were the first to travel around me): so reads the inscription on the coat of arms that Emperor Charles V gave to Elkano after completing the trip. A sculpture of the sailor located in the square that bears his name guides us to the town’s fishing area. No matter how we choose to get down to the port, which is at the end of the road, the smell of barbecued food and the atmosphere of the bars are sure to enhance our senses and we think about those times of whalers, travelers, and tremendous port activity. At the port, the net menders continue to weave the nets used by the fishermen who brave the Cantabrian Sea, fearlessly facing the mighty waters – after all, catching the fish that will later occupy the grills and dishes of the restaurants is at stake. Hundreds of years have passed, but the essence and the way of doing things still remain the same.
After visiting the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum and eating grilled fish, it’s time to visit a winery: a green carpet covers the hills that surround the town, featuring hectares of vineyards that produce the grapes that give rise to txakoli, a century-old drink that originated in these lands. Enjoying a tasting experience in this natural environment and being captivated by the sea breeze while looking towards the coast with the “Getaria’s Mouse”, the peninsula shaped like a rodent, presiding over the bay is an experience that helps us to reconcile with life.
Getaria