In 1522, after a process of reflection and spiritual conversion, Ignatius of Loyola made a pilgrimage to Manresa (Barcelona) and began a new life that culminated in the creation of the Society of Jesus in 1540. He was later canonized, in 1622, by Pope Gregory XV. This conversion showed Ignatius himself that “God can make all things new,” and changed his life forever. He notes in his autobiography that “some things that he observed in his soul and which he found useful […] could be useful for others.” Thus, in Manresa, he encouraged the rest to change, to follow him in his new life.
The Ignatian Way, which is celebrating this year the fifth centenary of his pilgrimage (the “Jubilee Year”), is a reflection of change: the changes undergone by a nobleman who abandoned the comfort of his velvet clothes for burlap, his boots for bare feet, and his sword for the pilgrim’s staff.
This change, this conversion, took place in the old Loyola tower, his birthplace, while his injured leg rested. The pious readings helped him to know “the true Christ,” and reached the conclusion that only in Jesus would he find fulfillment.
As humans from the twenty-first century, all this may sound like ancient history; however, we must be aware that Ignatius’ experience is meant to be timeless and go deep. As Saint John of the Cross, Ignatius’ contemporary mystic, once said: this experience is a “living flame of love which tenderly wounds my soul in the deepest center.”
The starting point of this trip, the region of Urola Erdia, together with the neighboring regions of Urola Garaia and Debagoiena, in the interior of the Province of Gipuzkoa, currently represent important destinations for cultural and religious tourism baptized under the name Ignatian Land. Their proposal is based on the figure of Saint Ignatius of Loyola and the massive historical, artistic/cultural, and religious heritage of his time, the sixteenth century, also known as the Basque Golden Age. The central aspect that acts as the backbone of Ignatian Land is the Route of the Three Temples, an itinerary measuring 45 km that joins the Sanctuary of Loyola with the La Antigua Hermitage, as well as the latter with the Aránzazu Sanctuary. This path recreates the first two stages of the pilgrimage undertaken by Ignatius of Loyola, and stands out for its artistic wealth and its spiritual and religious significance.
The Route of the Three Temples begins in Azpeitia, where the monumental ensemble of the Sanctuary of Loyola is located. It is made up of the Holy House –the birthplace of Saint Ignatius– and the Basilica of Loyola, in Baroque style, dominated by a dome which features a clear Roman influence and is preceded by a wide portico of Churrigueresque style. The next stop on the way is the La Antigua Hermitage of Zumarraga, in Romanesque style, built in stone and wood and considered the “Cathedral of the Hermitages” due to the incomparable beauty of its interior. Next to La Antigua, there is an Interpretation Center where the evolution of the Hermitage and the town of Zumarraga are explained. The journey ends in Oñati, at the Aránzazu Sanctuary, an imposing building that began to be built in 1950. Great artists of the time took part in its construction: the doors were forged by Eduardo Chillida, the altarpiece was carved by Lucio Muñoz in polychrome wood, the stained glass windows were made by Javier Álvarez de Eulate, the paintings are by Nestor Basterretxea, and the sculptures are by Jorge Oteiza. Inside, a small image of the Virgin, patron saint of the province, is venerated.
Apart from the visit to the Three Temples –a “must”– there are other themed routes designed by tour managers to immerse visitors in the figure of Saint Ignatius and the modus vivendi of the sixteenth century: the “A Birthplace” Route travels through the regions where Saint Ignatius spent his childhood and youth; “Interior Artwork” reveals the most important altarpieces created during this period of euphoric construction; “Humanistic Spirit” puts the focus on the Sancti Spiritus University of Oñati, the first university in the Basque Country, whose building is also one of the most important exponents of the Basque Renaissance; “Between Tower-Houses and Palaces” guides visitors to the most outstanding stately buildings in the region; “San Francisco de Borja in Ignatian Land” brings back to life the places in the region where the Fourth Duke of Gandía was (the great-grandson of Pope Alexander VI); a granary, a farmhouse, a forge, a mill, and two museums make up the “Lifestyles of the Sixteenth Century” Route; and “Virgins” highlights the carved figures of the main Virgins for whom Saint Ignatius of Loyola felt so much devotion – the Virgin of Sorrows, the Virgin of Olatz, and the Virgin of Dorleta, among others.
The best way to not miss a thing in terms of the wealth of Ignatian Land is to let yourself be carried away by the many professional guides specializing in heritage, history, and nature and who devote their professional lives to custom tours and personalized visits. They are also in charge of providing information to the public about the various events scheduled by the tour managers, whose work has been recognized by the European Commission, as in 2017, Ignatian Land was awarded the EDEN Award (European Destinations of Excellence) for sustainability and excellence in the management of cultural tourism destinations.
Land of Saint Ignatius