
My time in San Sebastián has been, without a doubt, one of the most important and transformative stages of my career. When I arrived at this city, which for many is the world capital of gastronomy, I did so with big dreams and a lot of respect for what San Sebastián represents. From the very first moment, I realized that being here would be a challenge but also a unique opportunity to grow as a chef and take my culinary creations to a level that I had only previously imagined.
Opening Amelia in 2017 was a personal and professional milestone for me. San Sebastián is a city where food is taken very seriously, where every corner is steeped in culinary tradition and people have immense knowledge and respect for ingredients. I knew I had to offer something that would really stand out here, and Amelia’s approach has always been to honor local and seasonal ingredients – but with a personal touch that reflects my roots and experience. Each dish we serve at Amelia carries within it a bit of San Sebastián; its markets, its sea, and its land… but it also carries my vision as a chef.
When we started with Amelia, it wasn’t easy. Competing in a city that is home to some of the best restaurants in the world is a huge responsibility, but also a daily source of motivation. In San Sebastián, quality is not an option, it is an obligation – and that standard is something that has accompanied me throughout my career. Obviously, obtaining a Michelin Star was a wonderful form of recognition for the team and for me, but the most important thing has been to feel that our work has resonated with the city and with those who visit us. San Sebastián is not just a place to open a restaurant, it is an environment where creativity and a constant passion for doing things well are forever present… and that has inspired me from day one.
At the same time, being here has also been the gateway for my international expansion. Amelia was the starting point for taking my cuisine to other parts of the world, and each new restaurant I have opened carries with it a little of what I have learned in San Sebastián. From Aleia in Barcelona to NOI in Hong Kong, my goal has always been to convey the philosophy that I so admire about this city: respect for the ingredients, dedication to excellence, and a constant search for innovation without losing sight of one’s roots.
International expansion has been an incredible journey, one full of learning experiences. Each place where we open a new restaurant has its own culture, its own ingredients, and its own pace. Nevertheless, something I always carry with me is the influence of San Sebastián. The way we work here with local foods and always strive for utmost quality is something I try to apply to each of my projects, regardless of the country they are in. In Geneva, in Hong Kong, in London… each restaurant is different, but that essence that I acquired in San Sebastián is always present.
Another key aspect from my time in San Sebastián has been the chance to work with incredibly talented people. Here, surrounded by so many great chefs and professionals, I have learned the value of teamwork and collaboration. San Sebastián is a city where everyone seems to live and breathe gastronomy, and that creates an atmosphere that drives you to be better each and every day. From local producers to fellow chefs, everyone does their part to create something truly special. This network of passionate and committed people has been key to my growth, and I am very grateful to have been able to be part of this community.
In short, San Sebastián is the stage where my cooking truly took on its own identity. Being here has allowed me to delve deeper into what I really want to express through food while also giving me the confidence and tools I needed to bring my vision to the rest of the world. Every time I return to San Sebastián, I feel like I’m returning home to the place where it all began – a place that continues to be an inexhaustible source of inspiration for me.
San Sebastián is not just a city, it is a way of understanding gastronomy that I take with me everywhere. As my restaurants grow and expand internationally, I know that this city will always be a fundamental part of what I do and how I do it. Here, among the city’s streets and its people, my cuisine found its voice… and that is something I will always carry with me.
Paulo Airaudo
Chef
Photo: Óscar Oliva.