Remírez de Ganuza: The Wine that Elevates the Gastronomic Experience at Akelaŕe, Arzak, and Martín Berasategui
Remírez de Ganuza: The Wine that Elevates the Gastronomic Experience at Akelaŕe, Arzak, and Martín Berasategui
In haute cuisine, wine does not merely accompany a meal; it elevates it. And in that experience, those who present it to the diner are as decisive as those who craft it. We visited three of the Basque Country’s most prestigious restaurants —Akelaŕe, Arzak, and Martín Berasategui, all honored with three Michelin Stars— to speak about one of the Rioja Alavesa wineries gaining the most international recognition today: Remírez de Ganuza. Founded in 1989 in Samaniego, the winery is a pioneer in producing contemporary wines of the Rioja Qualified Designation of Origin. With 80 hectares of its own vineyards divided into small plots, it stands out for its rigorous grape selection, meticulous elaboration, and long barrel aging. Innovative in its processes, Remírez de Ganuza combines precision with deep respect for the raw material, honoring the role of time, allowing each wine to evolve until it reaches its ideal expression. Remírez de Ganuza embodies the present of the Rioja Alavesa region; it is a bridge between tradition and the future of winemaking in the region.
Ciro Carro and Carlos Muro, sommeliers at Akelaŕe —the restaurant led by Pedro Subijana— have built one of the most respected wine lists in the country. Their criteria for selecting a winery are clear: alignment with the restaurant’s philosophy and sensitivity toward the customer. It is no coincidence that the establishment features 850 labels and around 11,000 bottles. Every listing is chosen with intention, with the aim of offering a complete and customizable experience. Their relationship with Remírez de Ganuza is the result of two decades of admiration and collaboration. “Opening a bottle of Remírez de Ganuza is synonymous with an absolute guarantee of quality,” they explain. Their connection with the winery is also reflected in their pairing choices. Carlos Muro gravitates toward the Gran Reserva 2012, which he imagines alongside fall dishes such as duck or roe deer with chestnuts, where the wine’s depth enhances the nobility of the game. Ciro Carro, meanwhile, highlights the versatility of the White Reserva, “capable of shining both as an aperitif and throughout an entire gastronomic menu.”
Mariano Rodríguez, sommelier at Arzak —the restaurant headed up by Elena Arzak— manages a wine cellar with 4,900 labels and around 80,000 bottles (60% Spanish, 30% French, and the rest international). He describes his connection to Remírez de Ganuza as follows: “I discovered the winery 40 years ago, when Fernando Remírez de Ganuza began the project. I was surprised to see such a small winery, almost château style. It was the first time I saw a grape sorting table. It amazed me, but I immediately understood the importance of selecting only the best, cleanest grapes. And the system of separating shoulders from tips struck me —both then and now— as truly unique. Among their wines, I would recommend Erre Punto to a beginner (a fresh wine, with carbonic maceration) or a Fincas (a wine which is balanced, full of flavor, persistent on the palate, and exquisitely composed). For someone more knowledgeable, a María Remírez de Ganuza; it’s an incredible wine that, in a blind tasting, could be compared to a great Bordeaux.”
We concluded our visit at the Martín Berasategui restaurant —which handles around 3,000 labels— to speak with its sommelier, José Manuel Borrella, who revealed that he first encountered Remírez de Ganuza 16 years ago at the restaurant: “At the time, we already had a vertical of their wines, which allowed me to appreciate from the very beginning the coherence and evolution behind their work. What I like most about the winery is that healthy obsession with detail, the absolute respect for the raw material, and the way they manage to express the essence of Rioja Alavesa with a very personal elegance. Their wines are precise, with an unmistakable identity.” When asked about his ideal pairing, Borrella replies: “At home, I would choose a Remírez de Ganuza White with grilled hake, fennel, and citrus fruit — something simple, yet harmonious and balanced. At the restaurant, I like the elegant contrast created between a Reserva and an aged meat or a creamy stew. These wines accompany food with respect and depth. And for a special moment, I would toast with Trasnocho; it is a wine with soul, with a depth that invites one to pause and savor. It represents effort, patience, and the beauty of a job well done. It is one of those wines that make you reflect and experience the moment to its fullest, with genuine presence.”
Remírez de Ganuza
Calle Constitución 1, Samaniego.
Tel.: +34 945 609 022
